On the Road Again


Moving from Taormina to Modica, by way of Caltigirone. My plan was to make a haul of wonderful ceramics in Caltigirone, home of the famous 142 steps, each inlaid with a different decorative tile.




Guess what I bought. Go ahead. Guess.

One gelato.

I had my heart set on some of the wonderful, brilliantly colored pieces I saw in shops in Taormina. Thinking, “these are tourist prices, I’ll get them cheaper right from the source,” I was mistaken. I learned that the brilliant colors I saw in Taormina shops are from another part of the country. The beautiful water-colory reds, blues, and yellows of Caltigirone didn’t do it for me, although I loved the shapes.

Lesson learned, which I actually KNOW. . .when you see so something you want, buy it. Don’t look at the price, don’t try to second-guess yourself, don’t try to save a few euro.

I actually DID buy one piece. . .a traditional Sicilian pigna, pinecone, symbol of prosperity and hospitality. It wasn’t the usual “poured in a mold and glazed” industrial type, but rather an artigianali piece. It’s all wrapped up for its trip home, so you’ll see it in our house some day.

So onward to Modica, past windfarms and hard scrabble landscapes.


We arrived a full hour and a half before we were to meet Giorgio, the caretaker of our next abode. We thought we’d go grocery shopping. Parked the car. Walked to the store. Closed. Of course, it’s Italy and it’s 3 pm!!!

We tried again and again to phone Giorgio, using the numbers we had from our Canadian homeowners. I kept getting a beeping sound. WHO KNEW the +39 before the number actually meant 0039. A kind hotel clerk helped us, we connected with Giorgio, and off we went to our new house.

And let me tell you, this is a HOUSE!! Two of each. . . Bedrooms, bathrooms, balconies, fully equipped kitchen, living room, dining room on two floors. It’s nestled in a neighborhood we’d never find on our own. It’s been completely remodeled and renovated, keeping the ancient stone walls and steps as part of the functionality and charm. Let me show you some photos, but first a view of Modica so you can get a sense of where we are:










If you want to know how to book this place, here it is:

VRBO property number 404439.

After a pizza at top-rated Pizza Più, we sank into our very comfortable bed, in our darkened room, and never moved until 7:30 am this morning!

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