Under the Modican Sun


I’m breathing a deep sigh of contentment. I feel at home walking in the neighborhoods on the ancient stones and steps. This FEELS like italy to me. Last night it smelled like Italy,too, with the wood-burning pizza ovens going.

Programma di giorno. . .explore Modica in the morning, have lunch, drive to Marina di Ragusa for some beach time. We began our day with a visit to a local artist of ceramics recommended by Giorgio. We found “a li’l sumpin’,” as Pooh would say, for Gemma.


Since it is Modica , chocolate is everywhere, and this was our mid-morning snack:



rich chocolate, hazelnuts, and pistachios. Then off to visit churches and be wowed, once again, by the opulence found in every town in Italy. There are 29 churches in Modica. One we passed this morning was having a funeral. There had to be at least 30 large sprays of flowers for a young man only 39 years old.

First stop. . .Chiesa di San Pietro. . .the church of St. Peter. . .


The candle burning brightly in the middle is for Debby Bratland, Jill’s mom.

Then on to San Giorgio. . .




Now with all this walking up steps, down steps, up streets, down streets, we were starting to work up an appetite. We decided first to find the original chocolate maker in Modica who uses the methods used by the Aztecs.



We sampled. We bought. We ogled the cannolis and said we would return after lunch.

We found the little lunch spot suggested by the tourist bureau lady. Little did we know the treat we we in for! We quickly discerned that this little place had the option of a fixed price, they-choose-the-plates, meal. Yes. That’s for us. With memories of other such meals, we knew we would be very happy.



First, the antipasti. As Don saw it approaching our table, he said, “here comes our meal.”Hah!! This is only the starter!

Most of these were specialities of Modica region. . .arancini, olives, foccace, hard salami, frittata, fresh ricotta, granary bread, bruschetta, puffed pastry.

I’m already full!

Here comes the first course. La zuppa made with fava beans and “lillia,” a special modicanese pasta. Heaven on a spoon!


Now we’ve got the second pasta course. Cavatelle and ricotta filled ravioli with a sauce made in heaven. Actually. In discussing it with the waiter, he described the drying of the special Sicilian tomatoes, the fresh olive oil. . .NOT industrial, he assured me. . . And the slow massaging of the sauce to perfection.


Next, the meats. . . Beef with sauce and potato, pork with a fresh lemon to squeeze onto the meat, and potatoes with rosemary.


Lucky for us, there were no other patrons, because Don kept moaning in pleasure. Really, it was almost embarrassing!!!


We had to finish with a small cannoli, of course, filled with Modica chocolate.


So next we were SUPPOSED to go off to the beach. Guess what. It’s after 5 pm and guess where Don is!

ASLEEP! It’s the Italian in him, I guess.

No beach today. Maybe we’ll walk downtown for the concert we saw advertised. Maybe after the concert we’ll have a drink at a bat. I hear they serve free “stuzzichini” (snacks) before 8 pm.

I’ll let you know tomorrow!

3 responses »

    • Betty, et al….modica chocolate is produced using Aztec methods. It’s a hard chocolate you must cut with a knife. The sugar remains granular. Delicious for eating or adding the shavings to cannoli filling !!

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