Sorano and Sovano


The rooms in the  fortezza in Sorano are now owned by a hotel.  Don never passes up an opportunity to visit the mens’ room, so when he asked, the young girl at the desk also asked if we’d like to see a room.  She led us to the “luna di miele” honeymoon suite, up in the castle turret.  Not for the faint of heart, we went up, up narrow, winding, uneven stairs, to a bathroom wedged into the area from which arrows rained down on opponents, and then up more steps to the bedroom.  I just hope the bridegroom didn’t ever carry the bride up those steps or 1) she would have died of fright, 2)he would have died of exhaustion.

The crest is that of the Aldobrandeschi and Orsini families, warring factions that ruled the area over time.

On to Sovana, a tiny town in which the only thing I wanted to see was the 1,000 year old duomo.  OF COURSE, it was at the end of the town, and we walked in the heat, finding every bit of shade we could.  

But the cool, simple stillness of St. Peter’s was reward in itself. I always marvel at the impact of religion manifested in 2-3 churches in every village, no matter how small.

The second church in Sovana, St. Mary’s, revealed some ancient frescoes.  

But this one was the most colorful, and we wondered if it had been restored, or like the LH frescoed chamber in the Siena duomo, it simply has withstood the test of time.  At any rate, it was beautiful.  

By now we were well and truly hot and tired, and the thought of returning home to our air-conditioned palace, where ice cream awaited us in our freezer, pulled us along.  There’s more to see in the area. . .an Etruscan necropolis or two, other hiking paths, piazzas waiting to be sat in.  

Another time.

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