Because, whilst researching and writing pages for this guide, I came across the story of Margherita Aldobrandeschi, the last noble lady to rule Maremma. In fact, the only woman to have ruled Maremma. I learnt that the love of her life, Lord Pannocchieschi – the one she had to wait the duration of five marriages to be with – had built the palace for her. Palazzo Pannocchieschi.
And that it was whilst they were living here in Palazzo Pannocchieschi, when they had everything they had waited for for so long – to be together – that their young son (who Margherita had given birth to out of wedlock when they had been together before she had had to marry another and whom was subsequently taken from her) died. Drowned in the well within the city walls. By all accounts murdered at the hands of a rival noble family.
A heartbreak so devastating that it destroyed their love forever.
And so, that is where we are. The palazzo has five apartments and we have one of them. We live right on the thorofare of tourists, dilly-dallying about eating gelatos, watching the world go by with a coffee, and up above we can watch this all unfold from our palace windows.
Since I said I would, here are the booking details and cost. . .about $90 a night, my score: 9 out of 10 (AC would make it a 10), comfy bed, excellent location although finding the place and PARKING is always a challenge!
So here we are in beautiful Massa Marittima, becoming more Italian by the day as we get up and have our adventures when there’s at least a HINT of coolness, home after lunch for sleep, then out again around 7 for a pizza and passiegata (a walk).
I’ll end today with the saga of finding the palazzo which, of course, the GPS did not recognize. So after asking a woman, a bus driver, and a man, we walked down these steps, which IS our street, found Palazzo Malfatti, then had to walk back UP all 154 steps at 2 p.m. HEAT to find the car, punch in a new location which the GPS did recognize, park, and haul our suitcases up a different hill.
And then we napped. With TWO ventilatore (fans) trained right on the bed.