Campiglia Marittima


So our home for the next 3 days is just about 45 minutes away from Massa Marittima.  This is our SLOW TRAVEL trip of exploring and enjoying tiny villages, not on any tourist destination.  We are more likely to see farm machinery than tourist buses, of which we have seen none!  Actually, the roads and hairpin turns simply would not be able to accommodate anything larger than a van.

Along the way we stopped at La Novella for a bite to eat.  Once again, I had read about it in the Maremma Guide, and this was our second trip here: once to investigate, and now to eat.  Sunday brought out lots of families sharing huge platters of meats and cheeses.  For me, the melon (called “popone” in Maremma) and prosciutto was just right.

I’m curious about her inscription of “Perché no” which in Italian means, “Why not?” She was standing outside the shop, so perhaps it’s “Why not. . .stop here/eat here/shop here.” Chissà–who knows!?

Yes, Telma, these IS a plastic cup with wine. I will admit to being shocked. But the wine was good!

Upon reaching Campiglia Marittima we were faced with the dilemma we always face when arriving in a new town.  1)Parking. . .2) finding our Air BnB contact, 3) getting suitcases TO the apartment FROM the car.  And remember, these are HILL TOWNS!!

(More in a future blog about the insights reached regarding these dilemmas.)

We found Chiara, our Air BnB owner, at her delightful gelato stand at the arranged time.  I’ve truly never tasted such wonderful concoctions. . .peach tea for me and yogurt honey for Don.

Then began the trek to find the car, retrieve the luggage, and get to the apartment. 

When I say this is a hill town, I’m not exaggerating.  It rivals the best of them with steep climbs.  

We were hot, tired, sweat pouring off of us, AND all of this with Chiara carrying the heaviest bag!!  Didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, so we laughed!  And we had no idea how we’d ever find our way back.  Breadcrumbs??  But there WAS a rose bush which left petals right up to our doorway!

Finally, we were IN!  The apartment is charming!

Don is THRILLED to have a remote to click on the AC!! The cupboard on the right hides a sweet small kitchen unit, fridge, two-burner stove.

This little place has become our afternoon haven from the heat and sun.  We arrive “home,” click on the AC, close the shutters, take a shower, and settle ourselves down for 1) an afternoon nap, 2) a glass of wine, 3)blog-writing or all three.

So. . . Air BnB–my rating 9.5/10

Cost–about $100/night

Our new town is filled with medieval nooks, crannies, and arches, and you never know what unexpected surprise awaits around each corner.  It’s delightful!

We have become Italian. We hang out our clothes, undies included, on the line outside our apartment. We have no shame!

Since I am actually writing this blog on our third day here (I’ll catch up with our other two days soon) I’ll close with two shots of the town clock, which we see from the small piazza where we go for aperitivi and then dinner.  

8 pm is about when we eat dinner, after enjoying an Aperol spritz and snacks at one of the two bars in town.

And then we finish around 10.  Swallows screech and circle overhead, the air has finally become fresh and cool.  We head up, up the hills, find our home, and drop into deep sleep. 

Buona notte!

2 responses »

    • It’s been amazing, and tomorrow we start our 5 day slow journey back to the Rome airport. The heat has been incredible, but at least we have figured out how to manage it, and we are both grateful for afternoon naps. Yesterday we finally felt some coolness start around 9:30 at night! WE have some fun spots to explore and a surprise (for Don) stay at a place we’ve visited. Stay tuned!!

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