Sweet Suvereto


DId you ever have one of those experiences where you can SEE a place, you know it’s close , and you can’t get there!?  So it was with San Giovanni, the church we could see from our window.  

We had the name confused and even found ourselves on a ZTL . . . Big no-no Zona Traffico Limited road–so who knows if we will find a fine in our mailbox in a few months!!  Anyhow, after driving around and around, me asking a woman in a nearby cemetery, we found it.

It’s an unusual church in that it is totally surrounded by graves.  All the flat parts are crypts. 

The church was built in 1173. Above one portal is a stone carving scene referring to Etruscan and Roman traditions of boar hunting.  

Seems like this whole area is filled with departed families, as there are the typical type graves adjacent to the church, as well as mausoleums.  I peeked in a few which were ornate and kept with flowers.  When they say “perpetual care” in Italy, they mean it.

So after a sufficient amount of time reading grave markers, the church, and environs, we set off to Suvereto.  Our objective here was simple:  explore yet another Medieval town, sit in the piazza, have lunch.

We can check off all three.  

We climbed to the rocca and explored the ancient stones.  We were surprised when we came around one corner and discovered a handicapped accessible lift!  I’m not sure I would trust to. use it, but it must have been put there for some good reason.


We found ourselves in the piazza drinking coffee and watching Life, including a flag flapping in the breeze.

Later in the day we discovered another political party in town, although the office looked desolate.

Lunch was probably at the best place in town. Seriously delicious.

And so, we accomplished another slow travel day in this part of Maremma.  We came home, climbed the hills to our apartment, put on the AC, fell asleep.  

Oh, yes. . .enroute home I saw a sight for which I have no photo.  White Chianina cattle in a field were feasting on a wagon load of cantaloupes!  Is that why their meet is so sweet and tender?

Just another Italian mystery!

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