After a night of walking through Venice at midnight, we had a SLOW morning!! When we finally got moving we decided to go to La Fenice, the opera house, to have a tour. When we were in Venice in February we bought the Venezia Unica pass which includes admission to a variety of churches, museums, etc. I believe the pass is good for at least a year, and we had not used the admission to the opera house.
So with pass in hand, we approached the ticket desk, and when they scanned the bar code which came up with a big red symbol, it dawned on me. . .at home I picked up the pass from over a year ago, 2018, not the 2019 and indeed, the 2018 version was used up. . .by me.
Always aware of a family history of dementia, I felt like I was losing it! We left, shamed, throwing the pass in the cigarette bin on the way out. But Don’s cool hand prevailed, we re-entered, paid 12 Euros each to go hear the rehearsal of the Barber of Seville.
I tell you this story because it may seem like travel is just a dream come true, and most of the time, it is. But there are these moments, and we were to experience another one later in the day, that keep us humble, grounded, and oh-so-human.
Because we were close by a tango friend’s shop, we stopped in to say “Ciao!” Michele de Fina owns one of the finest handbag shops in Venice with exquisite leather bags handmade here in the Veneto region.
I own one which I bought last year when Savannah and I stumbled upon his shop and she recognized him from a milonga we attended. It was fun this time to “talk tango” since we’re enroute to the tango festival. We ended up going to lunch together, and I have a feeling we’ll be seeing Michele on our side of the pond.
A few more steps along Calle Frezzaria brought us to L’Armadio di Coco, a vintage shop which friends had visited and came away with some amazing finds. Color me under-whelmed on this one, however.
Maybe things were just too picked over by the tourists which streamed into and out of the door.
Heading home for a brief respite we passed. . .1) a Venetian traffic jam. . .
2) the ballet dancer statue which our Quakertown neighbor’s daughter-in-law posed for!
Respite accomplished, we set out for one of the places I’ve wanted to visit for the past 2 times in Venice but never accomplished. The Fortuny Museum is just a 5 minute walk from our apartment. I’ve loved the fabrics and designs since I first saw them over 40 years ago when we lived in England. Off we set, directions in hand, and after two or three wrong turns, crumpling the paper in frustration, smoothing it out, and soon found ourselves there!
We approached the two young women at the partially open door to gain admittance (opening times listed 10 am-6 pm) and were told, “You must enter by 5 pm and then can stay until 6 pm.” We looked at our watch. . . 5:03 pm. . . And with that, the door was firmly closed.
Honestly, I think they made that story up, probably had hot dates waiting for them and wanted to get home. I was PISSED. What difference would it have made to them to let us in, assuming others were already inside. Beh. . .it was futile and my visit will need to wait another year.
So back we went to our own campo where two of the collateral exhibits of the Biennale were housed, hoping that THEY would be open until the advertised closing time of 6 pm.
Yes. . .
(Where IS Azerbaijan, anyhow?!). The exhibit on virtual reality was simply . . . Bizarre.
Directly beside our apartment is the music conservatory, and the exhibit as well as gaining admission to the ancient and amazing structure helped soothe the sting of having the Fortuny door slammed in our faces.
One of my favorite installations so far is this Persian hand-embroidered biscuit box and accompanying concrete biscuits.
The description explained that in Persian poetry there is often a theme of love and death, and this piece of art depicting the love of mother and child with biscuits as gravestones portrayed that contrast.
Additional pieces of art included three slowly moving symbols of three religions. . .the Star of David, the cross, and the Islamic Kaaba. As they rotated they came to a point at which they all merged and the sphere in the middle emphasized the cohesiveness.
It wasn’t until I put this photo in this blog that I discovered that this IS NOT the photo I thought I was taking! When I snapped it, the three images were distinct as the cross, the star, and the (box). But here they appear merged! And the ceiling in the palazzo is a work of art in itself.
(I actually returned to the exhibit today to try to see what happened with these photos, but today I was able to take a photo of the three distinct shapes. I have no idea how I got the first photo!!)
More art viewed from above. . .
Another respite at home (the location of our apartment is perfect!!) and then we decided we needed an aperitivi. After all, it was 6 pm and our tongues were wagging! We decided to see if we could nab a canal side table at a favorite spot, Bar Foscarini, just 5 minutes walking. We got lucky.
Thinking we would just stay and have dinner there, but raindrops chased us away and we didn’t want to go inside. So . .back over the bridge to a restaurant on our campo . .Beccafico. Delicious meal topped off with limoncello.
Still not wanting to end the evening, we crossed Academia bridge again and enjoyed the deserted streets of Dorsoduro.
One of us felt as if we needed dessert when we stumbled across a little restaurant, where we made short work of biscotti and torta della Nonna.
I think it was somewhere during this final coffee that we hatched plans for the “50th year anniversary tour” which will take place in 2020. Stay tuned for that one!!
Buonanotte Venezia!